In July and August 2019 we traveled to Peru and Ecuador for about 30 days. The main objective of the travel was to attend an International Biogeography Meeting celebrating the 250th anniversary of the birth of Alexander von Humboldt. This meeting was held at the Universidad San Francisco de Quito and details of the meeting can be seen here.
Naturally, since we are “formally retired” we also built travel of personal interest into this trip. One trip, primarily to the Marañon River region in northern Peru is summarized under the Peru 2019 tab. The second travel segment was after the Quito Conference, and involved sampling birding destinations on both the western and eastern Andean slopes of Ecuador. This travel, as well as background material on Ecuadorean natural history is described in the following links.
Overview of Ecuador and its “nature”
We are not experts on the nature and natural history of Ecuador, but we have traveled there on work several decades ago and have rented vehicles and driven across parts of the country both in the distant past and very recently (2019). A summary of Ecuador’s climatology was prepared for the 2019 Conference participants and here we will summarize quickly the essential climatic and geographical aspects of Ecuador.
The basic physical relief of Ecuador is shown in Fig. 2. Broadly speaking, the Andes separate the Amazonian lowlands to the east from the Pacific lowlands in the west. And although Ecuador is close to the Equator, the climate does vary and is different on either side of the Andes. A strong dry season is seen in southwestern Ecuador while there is rain every month in eastern Ecuador. The eastern Andean slopes are routinely cloudy, with winds generally from the east, while the western slopes of the Andes can be cloud-free on many mornings, with late afternoon showers (more frequent towards Colombia).
The Andes are not simply a single mountain range; they have two main north-south ranges punctuated by high volcanoes. Between the eastern and western ranges is the so-called inter-Andean valleys (Quito and most population centers lie in them). These valleys are quite dry compared with the eastern and western Andean slopes, and have some unique xeric vegetation. The inter-Andean valleys are conspicuous on satellite-derived cloud climatologies (Fig. 3).
Getting around Ecuador: some rarely noted details important for the nature traveler
The natural history attractions in Ecuador are varied, and can include rainforest “exploration”, birding at many lodges, or hiking glacier-capped volcanoes. And of course there are the Galapagos Islands, discussed elsewhere.
Although Ecuador is a relatively small country compared with its neighbors, the extreme topography and resultant windy roads make driving tedious and longer than many tourists might be accustomed to for similar distances elsewhere. Landslides can block roads, and slow trucks combined with very curvy roads make for slow – and sometimes dangerous driving. Then the roads themselves are a problem for the nature explorer. Although the pavement on newer roads can be excellent, the sides of the roads usually have deep culverts to channel water and collect rocks from rockslides, and these culverts make it very difficult to pull off the road. Thus the driver must stop on the road – a very undesirable action on mountainous roads where fast downhill drivers can suddenly appear. There are essentially no passing lanes in Ecuador, so passing slow trucks can be dangerous on mountain roads.
Taxi fares can be comparable with rental car rates so it is not necessarily a good idea to rent a vehicle – especially if your ability to stop wherever you want is limited by the road conditions. And for many individuals – who will stay multiple days at birding or Amazon lodges, a rental car will not be that useful while you are at the lodges. More recommendations for Ecuador can be found here.
Birding lodges and “Shamu” experiences
On our 2019 trip we stayed at four lodges, three of which catered primarily to birders. Most of these lodges were sufficiently remote from outside places to eat that the practical solution was to purchase the meals at the lodge (these are often part of the overall price). Lodges catering to birders will have hummingbird feeders, sometimes fruit trays to attract tanagers and jays and even lights at night to attract moths and beetles for the birds to feast on the following morning. Because of these items and the remote nature of the lodges (usually surrounded by forest) the daily costs are substantially hight than hotels found in towns. Such lodges can be visited for a modest fee during the day, and trails can be walked as well, so this can be an option for those staying in nearby towns and wising to see the birds. Transportation will then become the issue.
Birding lodges, with their specialized feeding strategies to attract birds, can be see as akin to visiting a zoo (termed a “Shamu” experience by one birder we spoke with). Unfortunately, many birds are hard to see without feeders and photography is vastly easier when birds reliably visit feeders. Despite this, many birds do not visit feeders and walking a lodge’s trails is necessary to see such birds.
“Amazonian lodges” are not exactly the same as “Birding lodges”. To get to most Amazon lodges you may have to fly to a town (e.g. Coca) in the eastern lowlands, then take a three-hr motorized canoe trip downriver to your lodge. Yes, you will see birds, but you might also see River Dolphins, Giant Otters and a host of fish and mammals that birding lodges won’t provide. But the daily cost per person is considerably higher at such lodges, and you are not free to wander trails without a guide (unlike at birding lodges).
Most birding lodges are set at mid-elevations, roughly in “cloud forest” environments. Because many birds favor certain elevational ranges, lodges at different elevations may provide different birds at the feeders and in the forests. For example, on the western slope near the town of Mindo there are lodges (or specialized birding facilities) at 2800m (Bellavista), 1700m (Tandayapa), 1600m (Septimo Paraiso) and at 1150m (Milpe). On the eastern slope we find birding lodges at 2700m (Guango), 2050m (Cabanas San Isidro) and 1460m (Wild Sumaco). Amazonian lodges (there are many) are much lower – between 200-400m.
What is good and “less-good” about the Ecuadorean nature lodges
In our limited experience the birding lodges excel in providing viewing opportunities for hummingbirds and many other birds that come to feeders. Most have good trails, though the cloud forest trails tend to be muddy and some are quite steep. Fortunately, all lodges provided rubber boots for use on the trails – a big plus in having to not bring such boots!
Most lodges had plaques describing the main birds to be seen and these were placed near the feeders. There were also field guides usually available, but the quality of the viewing platforms varied among the lodges; Cabanas San Isidro had the best viewing platform we visited but others were adequate for bird photography.
Despite the presence of trails, most lacked information to educate those walking them. Only one lodge had a trail with plaques – and these were coated with lichens and mosses due to the perpetually high humidity.
What we’d like to see improved
More information needed… and volunteered. Some lodges did not provide enough information at the outset (like a normal hotel that has a summary book with all of the information a guest might like to know). Summary of the trails, eating times, bird lists, what is for dinner etc. Little to no information on the uniqueness of the lodge environment, the uniqueness of the habitat, and virtually nothing about the plants. No mention of the palms, epiphytes, differences between the cloud forest and lowland forests etc. Perhaps most visitors come with guides that provide this information (we doubt this) or the focus of most visitors is strictly on birds and little else (unfortunately this may be closer to the truth). In our experience a great many people would appreciate knowing more about the different epiphytes, the altitudinal zonation of the birds or palms, or what distinguishes a cloud forest from the Amazonian lowland forest. Or the cloud forests on the western slopes – how are they different from the eastern slope cloud forests. So many things could be conveyed to the visitors. Our discussions with various guides suggested that this level of knowledge simply isn’t taught to the guides, or that those who have this level of knowledge aren’t motivated to convey it to visitors.
Recommendation for Ecuador and other neotropical countries
Our experience in Ecuador convinced us that the nature lodge and guiding community needs to consider developing nature guiding schools in a similar vein to those that exist in South Africa. Such programs have formal training of approximately 6 months, with internships lasting another 6 months. A wide variety of subjects are covered, some not relevant to the neotropics but most material of high value. Different guiding categories could be developed so that tourists would be able to select guides based not only on their subjective personal reviews (but by their training in specific areas).